Monday, December 12, 2005

Around the Bayside 32

All Michigander's will explain that their best roadmap is pointing out where you are, or where you are going, on the "mitten". In Delmarva, geographically speaking, of course, the best you can do is point with a stuck up a finger, and that probably won't get you far in certain social circles.
This past week, I traveled nearly the whole upraised digit. I started my adventure in Seaford, Delaware, got lost in Laurel, and ended up in Chincoteague, Va., all in the interest of creative expression.
I had long heard rumors about someone called "the bead lady", in Seaford. Located in a strip mall between a hairdresser and a pawn shop, is the coolest little bead store,” Tangled Up in Beads.” Wow! Hundreds and hundreds of rainbow bits of glass, priceless crystals and glowing pearls poured into tea cups and wineglasses and even an antique pedestal sink!
A worktable displayed a half finished purple and citrine necklace, and Wendy, the artist who created it, explained that they not only do custom pieces, but give jewelry making workshops, as well.
You can also walk in anytime, and receive a two-hour private lesson for less then twenty dollars, plus materials. I am going to take heirloom loose beads from my jewelry box, augment them with pearls, and make Christmas presents. For more information call (215)292-3208.
On the way home from Seaford, I finally gave in to my itch to turn at the sign reading "Britt's Dutch Inn". Rather then think it a curse, I love having no sense of direction, because though I often don't find what I THINK I am looking for, getting lost means I always find unexpected treasure. In this case, it was the secluded village of Laurel, dotted with gingerbread and clapboard homes, and a historic, russet brick downtown. I can't wait to explore it more, and try once again to find Britt's Dutch Inn.(it’s the lure of good food, again) A word of caution; at the time of my adventure, the main street into town was being blacktopped, and my little car spit tar for three days afterwards.
My final destination was Chincoteague Island, Va., where I attended a weekend writer's conference. I took the back way, bypassing Pokemoke City for Route 12, instead. The ride itself is a meditation, past neatly tended chicken farms and ramshackle, abandoned homesteads, along wide open fields of gold and brown, then abruptly shaded stretches of maple and pine. A road sign with a little red cardinal on it told me I was in Virginia, and once I passed the jarring white rocket marking the NASA Visitor Center, I knew I was almost there. The road becomes a narrow ribbon of land between water and marsh, punctuated by white egrets and Buy Here!, Eat Here! Sleep Here! signs sticking up out of the water. Somehow, it's charming, and that charm is reinforced as you slow down to cross the narrow drawbridge, with tall masted white boats anchored to your right.
To me, Chincoteague is a double cheese pizza, topped with Berlin‘s Victorian charm, the peace of Assateague Island, and the waterfront shopping of Ocean City, baked in an Ultimate Delmarva Special.
All the restaurants, hotels, and shops are within strolling distance, so park your car and pocket your keys.
One great place to start is Irene Rouse Bookstore, located at 4073 Main St. No slick, bookstore cum coffee shop here, but an old-fashioned booklover’s paradise, complete with Irene, celebrated local poet and columnist. The floorboards creaked, books and artwork were crammed wall to wall, and Irene held court in her tweedy sweater, long skirt, and boots. In the space of two minutes, I found three books I just HAD to have, along with valuable information on Island amenities. Not to be missed, folks.
See you next week!

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